There was more to this picture than that, though: the ones who walked down the white, metaversial slope of the set with wraparound masks, or coats and T-shirts implanted with screens playing videos of people kissing, flocks of birds at sunset, tropical fish, flowers and winking eyes. “When you’re sitting on a train or in […]
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And on the other: there was Anderson, toying with manipulating tech and his set to make this physical show appear to be a non-real, computer-generated entity when viewed via his livestreamed video and lookbook. “I like this idea of high definition, the idea of that you remove everything away from the clothing, and it becomes […]
Fashion is on the brink of entering the Metaverse, and arguably our human consciousness is already fused with our digital devices: Jonathan Anderson marked the moment with a speculative exploration around the subjects of perception, nature and progress for his Loewe men’s show. “A fusion of the organic and the fabricated,” he called it. Click […]
In her time Nichanian has seen the codified structures of menswear bend, collapse and distort. She reflected this, tenderly and with sympathy, in designs that blended the bended parameters of dressing today. This was a summer collection, hence the literal solar knitwear and marine life prints of seahorses and crayfish. House iconography—certainties to rally around—were […]
Asked whether after 33 years in her position as the prime female designer of menswear in luxury she shapes her vision of men through a female gaze, Véronique Nichanian demurred. “Not at all,” she said: “I just try to propose things that make them more charming. I don’t judge the man… c’est une proposition tendre.” […]
The models walked the 400 meter circuit around us in groups that reflected the phases of the collection. The swimwear, made from recycled fibers, had been on offer for a while, the designer said, but never before in a show. Patched denim looks featuring Serre’s crescent moon mark segued into a section of bodycon pieces […]
When fashion designers elect to hold late night shows on the edge of Paris it is often borne of a wearisome creative insecurity—they wish to make the audience suffer for their art in order to feel reassured they have clout. This was entirely different. Serre was trying to reshape the fashion show in sync with […]
“It’s about being present. Putting down your phone. Being with your friends and people you love. Seeing the sun go down and feeling the wind and having a party. Not just a 10-minute show. With all these people coming, I just wanted to give them a good time and to feel like a community—and honestly […]